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 Growing
Tuberous Begonias
If
you’re looking for something that really
puts on a show, you can’t beat a California
Tuberous Begonia. Plant a bunch of this variety,
and come July/August, your yard will be alive
with iridescent whites, pinks, reds, oranges,
and yellows. If you’re new to gardening,
just start with a dozen or so. They take a little
extra work, but once you learn a few tricks, begonias
make for an enjoyable hobby.
First,
you want to buy your begonia tubers this month,
the sooner the better. When purchasing, keep your
standards high. Ideally, the tubers should have
the consistency and firmness of a potato. If they’re
a bit dirty, that’s okay. But pass on any
that look at all shriveled. By the same token,
watch for soft, mushy tissue and any signs of
fungus or mildew. If you can, buy from the bulk
bins. If you don't have that option, just make
sure you steer clear of any tuber you can't touch
first or that are packaged in a way that doesn't
allow for airflow.
There are 3 types of Begonias
- California Hybrid Tubers
These are very large and excellent performers…
quite possibly the cream of the crop.
- Belgium Begonias Normally
smaller and less expensive than California Hybrids,
they still perform great.
- Non-Stop Begonias (grown from seed)
Though they form into smaller tubers, they’re
normally only available in plant form in 4-6"
pots. Lots of people use them in hanging baskets,
but because their habit is upright you won’t
get that geranium-like trail and flow.
As
for planting…
Here's
a method that resulted from a few years of trial
and error to develop by one successful tuberous
begonia gardener.
- Using top quality soil, set the tubers 1-2"
apart (cup end up) in a starter flat, keeping
them from touching. Plant the tuber shallow
enough so that the top is showing slightly.
- When they reach 4-5" tall in a few weeks,
lift out the tuber (being careful not to damage
the roots).
- Re-plant the tuber 1" deep in a 7"
or greater diameter pot, using top quality potting
soil. Use a pot with a hole in the bottom wide
enough for a stake to go through. Pick a shady
spot, and drive a 20" stake through the
pot and into the ground, deep enough that the
stake can brace a begonia stalk. As the stalk
grows, it will become increasingly herbaceous
and heavy. Often, the plant will want to fall
over from the weight of the stem. Use a twist
tie or wire tie to bind the stalk to the stake
as it grows, making sure it isn’t so tight
as to cut off circulation.
Fertilizing & Watering
Use
a 20-20-20 fertilizer every 7-10 days until the
plant grows to about 6" high. Then cut back
to fertilizing once a month. Try Alaska Fish Fertilizer,
too -- it seems to work great with begonias. Water
carefully, about once a week throughout summer.
Don’t over do it, yet don’t let the
planter dry out either.
Additional
Care
- Pick off the dead leaves and blooms.
- Spray with a "Funginex" if plants
get mildew on them.
- Remember, begonias are shade plants. Though
they can handle a little mid-day sun, you need
to watch their direct solar exposure.
- In the fall, When the plants have died back
to the ground, dig up the tubers, allowing some
soil to cling to them. Place the tubers in a
sheltered frost-free spot for a few weeks, until
they are so dry that their stems and the soil
around them break away easily. Store the tubers
over the winter in dry vermiculite, perlite
or peat moss at 40° to 50°.
Go
ahead, Give a few begonias a try this year and
see what happens.
While much of the information in these tips is
applicable in several gardening zones/climates,
some of the plants and timing suggested are best
suited to the Northwest, generally in the mild/wet
growing regions found along the I-5 corridor.
You should make appropriate adjustments or consult
local gardening experts in regions whose climates
differ from this area of the Northwest.
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